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Straight Axle Ford F-SERIES Rear Suspension

Choosing the right rear suspension for your Straight Axle Ford F100 is really up to you and the kind of truck you wantto build. Some considerations to ponder: Daily driver or show truck, high horsepower or cruiser, tire width, quality of ride. There are pretty much 3 general choices when choosing a rear suspension.

Straight Axle Ford F-SERIES (F100) Stock Rear Suspension

We’ll start with the stock set-up with leaf springs. This system is fine and all you have to do is make sure all of your parts are in good working condition. Inspect the leaf eye bushings and pins to make sure they’re in good shape. These are often neglected of grease and wear the frame bracket and the spring eye out of round, so inspect them and rebuild as necessary.

We carry the best quality restoration rear suspension rebuild parts for 48-64 F100’s

Easy 9 inch Ford Rear End Swap for the Straight Axle Ford F-SERIES (F100)

One of the easiest upgrades you can make to your Straight Axle Ford F-SERIES (F100) is the rear end/axle. Finding a donor 9 inch Ford rear end for my 53 F100 was pretty easy and inexpensive. It turns out that a 67 Ford F-SERIES has rear end housing almost identical to the stock F-SERIES in terms of how it mounts to the springs and shocks. It is literally a dead on fit to install it in the 48-64 F-SERIES. Leaf spring width, spring perch placement – all matched up. Drum to drum width was nearly identical as well. Stock 1948 – 1964 Ford F-SERIES rims still fit because the 5 bolt wheel pattern is the same for most F-SERIES’s for many decades. Make sure you measure if you choose to go this route because it’s possible that only certain 67 F-SERIES’s had this rear end. I’m not sure. I would assume that some of the 68 to 71 F-SERIES’s would be the same as well. I measured a 72 F-SERIES, but the leaf springs were 1/4 inch wider which makes the spring perches too wide for stock 53 F-SERIES leaf springs. The 9 inch that I found in the 67 F100 was a 28 spline, but worked great for my 302!

Four Link Suspension Systems & Ladder Bars

I consider the ladder bar system fundamentally the same in concept as the four link or four bar suspension system. Four bar systems usually take less room to install than the four link, but are typically not as strong as a four link. Four links are superior for ride and adjustability as well as strength (usually), so we’ll focus on those.

Four link suspension systems come in many configurations, but all are based on the same idea. 4 bars (2 on each side) connect to the rear axle from a front mounting point. It could be a cross member or frame rail mount bracket. Keeping side to side movement in check is a bar called a panhard bar, or it can be called a track locator. Several companies offer systems and they vary in a number of ways. 4 bar tube diameter, rod end size and quality of components basically determine how much abuse the suspension system can take. For example, 1-3/8 inch diameter 4 bars typically take more abuse than 1-1/8 inch diameter versions (if material quality is the same). A strong front mounting bracket or cross member is critical because everything is attached to it. Quality spherical rod ends are equally critical because these can easily be a weak point in the system. The spherical rod ends may have to endure a lot of abusive torque. Mild-steel rod ends will work in lower horsepower applications while chromeoly rod ends should be used for high horsepower applications. It’s also important to note that the lower bar on each side of a four link puts a lot of stress on the front mounting point when you launch your F-SERIES. The rear end (pinion) torques upward and pushes the lower bars forward on the mount. The mount should be reinforced well if you’re running big horsepower.

Some rear 4 bar suspension systems for the Straight Axle F-SERIES’s mount to each frame rail and don’t rely on a cross member for connection. They basically are installed where the original leaf springs are. They typically bolt to the frame and are fairly simple to install. You will most likely have to weld the connection between the rear end to the brackets that attach to the 4 bars. These are fine systems, but limit tire width, similar to a stock leaf spring set-up. One advantage to the geometry of the frame rail mounted 4 bar suspensionsystem is that it puts the 4 bars on the outside of the frame rails. That widens the 4 bar location and wider is better.

F100 Central offers a few different 4 bar suspension systems. No Limit’s version uses longer bars and I favor it over the others. Click here to visit the 4 bar suspension parts available.

If you are pro streeting your truck with fat tires, you might as well buy a "fit anything" four-link suspension system as the street rodders do. There’s not much reason to buy a system built specifically for your 1953, 1954, 1955 or 1956 F-
SERIES. You still have to take into consideration how tough the system has to be to handle your right foot launches.

There are many spring options available for 4 link suspensions. Integrated coil-over’s with shocks are the most common. Spring rates are important and companies who sell springs can help you with the correct rate and length of spring. Coil-over’s usually bolt to a cross member on top and to brackets that are welded to the rear end. Some mounts come with several holes to adjust ride height by using different sets of holes. Now, companies like Air-Ride Technologies have brought air bag suspensions to the forefront of street rodding. Air bags can usually be substituted in place of coil-over. When set up correctly, air bag suspensions are great performers – never thought of your F100 as a track truck? Air bag suspensions also allow you to lower your truck at a show and raise it up to drive it home.

Corvette Independent Rear Suspension for 53, 54, 55, 56 F100 (F-SERIES)

There is nothing better than a Corvette independent rear suspension in your 1953, 1954, 1955 or 1956 Ford F-SERIES F100. It’s by far the best ride and looks the coolest! In the past, people have adapted Jaguar and Corvette independent rear suspensions on their own. Now bolt-in rear suspension kits are available to set-up a corvette independent rear suspension on your 1953, 1954, 1955 or 1956 F100. Flat Out Engineering provides the kits for several different trucks including the 53-64 Ford F100. We are a dealer of Flat Out Engineering Corvette suspension kits. Yes the cross member and all mounts bolt right in – easier than you might think. Then just take a Corvette Independent Rear Suspension out of a Corvette and install it in your truck. You can weld some of the components in if you choose to.

Check out the Corvette IRS parts here. Flat Out Engineering has assembled these install kits to make the Corvette suspension install go as easy as possible.

If you’re putting Corvette IRS out back, you might as well put Corvette Independent Front Suspension up front.

See how to install a Corvette independent rear suspension in a story on the Classic Trucks magazine website.

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Ford F100 Front Suspension

Choosing the right suspension for your Straight Axle Ford F100 (F-Series) is really up to you and the kind of truck you want to build. Some front suspension considerations to ponder: Daily driver or show truck, high horsepower or cruiser, quality of ride. There are pretty much 4 general choices when choosing a straight axle rear suspension. I’m not considering a frame graft from another car an option at this point because I think there are better, and less intrusive options for the straight axle F100 (F-Series) frame. The Volare is about as intrusive as I can stand.

Stock Straight Axle Ford F-Series Suspension and Old School Dropped Axles

Let’s face it. If you’re looking for original, you will be rebuilding the stock suspension on your Ford F-Series (F100) to make it run straight down the road safely. The stock set-up is fairly simple. You should make sure all of the suspension bushings are in good condition or replace them. Leaf spring eye bushing kits make it easy to replace worn or out of round bushings and pins. Kingpins and their bushings require a reamer to size the bushings to the kingpins. When you install these bushings in the axle, they conform to the shape of the hole in the axle which is by no means a perfect round hole. To keep a tight fit, the bushings are made to ream back into round and fitted to the diameter of the kingpin. Definitely take your time here because reaming too much means you start over with a new set of bushings. Make sure the rubber bump stops are in good shape and are actually there on the frame above the axle.

Ford F100 dropped axles and reverse eye leaf springs are available to drop your truck for a lower stance. There is nothing cooler than a dropped Ford F-SERIES! It is possible to take your stock beam and have someone stretch it to achieve a dropped axle. It’s usually expensive to have done, and good luck finding someone who can do it and maintain good geometry. Dropped I-beam axles are available. They will likely be made of seamless tubing, rather than a cast piece like your stock axle. They don’t necessarily look all that great, but when your truck is scraping the ground, no one can see

For more original suspension parts visit this web page.

Better alternatives are out there for a smoother ride and adjustable ride height.

Straight Axle Ford F-SERIES (F100) Mustang II Suspension

Several companies have Mustang II conversions specifically engineered for your Straight Axle Ford F-SERIES (F100). They’re fairly easy to install and are cost-effective. Mustang II IFS kits vary in price and parts configuration. The least expensive way to go is to buy a weld-in Mustang II cross member kit. Then you can purchase the rest of the suspension, brake, and steering components from your favorite parts house or salvage yard. Another option is to buy a complete Straight Axel Ford F100 (F-SERIES) Mustang II front suspension kit. The advantages here are these. Stock Mustang II suspension is not generally good enough for the heavier F100’s. Companies like Heidts have redesigned certain components to be stronger and will last well on an F100. They are reasonably priced, especially since they do most of the gathering of parts for you. You can add air bag suspension, chrome suspension arms or tubular arms, but it will increase the price.

Remember, your stock suspension was meant to have a flexible frame. If you are going the Mustang II route, you should box the front section of the frame rails to make the chassis more rigid. You will be welding a substantial cross member in place and that will help with frame rigidity. Locating this cross member on the frame accurately is important. You can keep the same centerline as your stock suspension and your wheels will remain spaced toward the back of the fenders as stock is. Or, you can move the cross member forward on the frame a bit and center your wheels in the fenders better. This system doesn’t require cutting or notching the frame. Line it up accurately and weld it in. Plenty of brake options are available for the Mustang II spindles which are just one great reason to go this way. 13 inch brakes are available from Baer, and possibly even 14 inch brakes can be found. People I’ve talked to say go 11 inches or bigger with your front brakes. That’s a lot of truck to stop and the investment in braking can save reinvestment in paint….

1953, 1954, 1955 and 1956 Ford F-SERIES (F100) Volare Suspension

While not considered a show suspension exactly, the Volare suspension is well suited to the 1953, 1954, 1955 and 1956 Ford F-SERIES (F100). It fits on the frame well, and maintains good geometry. Width is nearly perfect for the Ford F-SERIES (F100). The donor cars have similar weight as your Ford F-SERIES (F100), so the suspension components are substantially strong. Ride height has some adjustability and that is attractive to lower your 1953, 1954, 1955 and 1956 Ford F-SERIES (F100). Be aware that you can reduce the torsion bar pre-load adjustment, but the ride can be too soft at the expense of handling, and probably not what you want. Drop spindles for the Volare suspension are available to lower your truck properly, but are pricey. Finding a donor car is pretty easy. Tons of Chrysler cars used this suspension from the mid 70’s to late 80’s. You don’t necessarily have to find a Volare automobile. This makes this suspension swap inexpensive. The key is finding a good donor that isn’t worn out. Benefits include a fantastic IFS ride, power steering and nearly 11 inch diameter power disc brakes. Wheel bolt pattern is 5 on 4 – 1/2 inches which matches up with other Ford bolt patterns. Finding a 9 inch rear end with the same bolt pattern should be easy. Stock 1953, 1954, 1955 and 1956 Ford F-SERIES (F100) wheels may not work on this suspension as the hubs are bigger.

Taking the suspension out of a donor car is fairly easy. You simply unbolt the front k-member and suspension from the donor car. Installation involves notching the existing Ford F-SERIES (F100) frame to allow clearance, but the frame remains stock otherwise. This install requires some fabrication skill, but is not terribly difficult. A Volare suspension swap is a graft onto the Ford F-SERIES (F100) frame and should be welded on, not bolted. No Limit Engineering used to have a video that showed this install. Check with them before you install this suspension. Remember, you should box the frame with the Volare suspension. One down side to this system is that the power steering box sometimes gets in the way of engines (headers/exhaust).

Custom Independent Front Suspension (IFS)

If you’re building a show truck, this is the way to go. We carry the complete custom IFS kit for your Straight Axle Ford F-SERIES (F100). The advantages to this system are mostly looks and glitz, but they perform extremely well. Mustang II suspensions can work almost as well, but simply don’t look as nice. Polished stainless and chrome components are available.

Corvette Independent Front Suspension – IFS

Many will cringe at this idea, but the Corvette IFS fitted to a 53-56 Ford F100 is a great idea! Forget that it’s a GM set-up. Big brakes, factory components that are sturdy enough for our trucks…What more could we want? If it were made by Ford, it would be perfect. Think about this :). Corvettes supposedly weigh a bit more than our 53-56 Ford F100’s. That means the suspension and brake components are over-engineered a bit for our trucks. The Corvette has a fantastic suspension set-up, especially in the rear. If you want the IRS in the back of your truck, you can have it. You can easily keep the wheel bolt pattern by installing the Corvette IFS.

We have 2 installation kits:

One is for 1984-1987 Front Corvette suspension components and one for 1988-1996 Back/Rear Corvette suspension components.

It’s wise to find a donor Corvette and then buy the install kit to match. A good Corvette donor might be a little harder to find when you need it.

There are small differences between the 2 Corvette kits. One of the most notable is the diameter of the front brake rotors. The Corvette Front brake rotors are a bit larger on 88-96 Corvettes. Some other minor differences also exist, but that is one of the major ones.

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Stock and Modified Frames

The kind of Ford truck you’re building will determine the kind of frame you should have. The stock frame with stock suspension is meant to flex a little. You should not make it rigid by adding more support or boxing the frame with frame boxing plates. As well, you should not overpower the stock frame because it just can’t take high horsepower engines. I’ve seen a lot of frames that were just butchered to fit a big block engine in. My first truck had the cross member that connects the front cab supports stripped out to accommodate a 390 with a C6 transmission. That led to the front cab mount wings sagging and cracking. All of the stock cross members are there for a reason, so don’t modify them if you’re not sure of what you’re doing.

If you are adding a Mustang II, Volare or Custom Independent front suspension to your Straight Axle Ford F-SERIES, you should box the frame rails and add as much support as you need to accommodate the engine power. These suspension options do not require the frame to flex. Its better rigid.

If you’re running Mickey Thompson’s out back, you’ll be cutting the frame to accommodate the wide tires. This requires some serious cutting and welding technique, so make sure you measure well and cut and weld in enough support. You’ll probably be adding a 4-Link Rear Suspension out back to help get that power to the ground.